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What's the Scoop?

Island Beginnings
by Kaity Jimenez '01, Milpitas, California

Kaity Jimenez '01 found a tale of magic and long-distance love.
Strings of yellow light twinkle around the plastic Christmas tree. Gifts are wrapped perfectly in colorful papers and ribbons, but they are tossed into an unorganized pile on the floor. "The boxes are really empty, but it makes the bakery look a lot more welcoming. Especially for Filipinos, who are mostly Catholic." An angel crowns the Christmas tree; its gold halo brushes the ceiling of the bakery. "The angel is so beautiful. My daughter picked it out and mailed it to me last week. She loved the gold wings. I do too." The angel's hair covers most of the plastic wings. Mario reaches up to stroke its golden locks.

The tree is the only thing in the bakery that towers above Mario. Most of his semi-bald head shines in the light, but the sides of his head are covered with patches of uncombed black hair. He says, "I lost this hair many years ago; I came to the States with a full head of thick hair. That year, it started to fall out in the front and middle of my head. After that, year after year, I lost more and more hair. Maybe it's the stress. Or the oven's fumes burning it off." He chuckles.

The pastry display case stands next to the luminous tree. "Gold Ribbon Bakeshop's specialty!" A white sign is taped onto the glass, Pan de Sal."In Spanish, it translates to 'bread of salt.' Of course, the bread doesn't taste salty. It's just the name." Behind the sign, clear bags filled with fluffy rolls sit; the golden color of the bread radiates next to the Christmas lights. Each roll is pushed against the others so the bread is tightly packed into the plastic bag. "I try to fit at least eight in each bag because that's what we sell. My boss, Uncle Clement, sells eight pan de sal for one dollar. Very, very good. Very, very cheap."

Mario races into the kitchen, through two swinging doors. The squeaky doors have two windows; behind the doors, the chaos of metal pans and flour-dusted tables is hidden. "Straight ahead is my wooden table; nobody touches this but me. This has been here since Gold Ribbon Bakeshop opened in 1987. We used to be down the street, but when we had too many customers, we moved to this place here. This building used to be a shoe store, but they went out of business, so we took over. And Uncle Clement brought my table from the old bakery to this new one."

Mario heads towards the tower of red lockers next to the sink. "Number 238 is my locker." He covers the rusty lock with his hand, concealing his secret combination. In the back, a picture is taped to the locker. One photograph: a tan woman with long black hair, wearing a green summer dress and next to her, a young girl, maybe 5 or 6 years old in a blue bathing suit, wearing orange inflatable wings on her arms. The photo of his wife and daughter is old and ripped around the edges. However, blue ink marks the dingy borderlines of the picture: "August 18, 1990." He stares at the snapshot of wife and child. "They are with me always, watching me bake, watching everything I do. God knows it." He kisses the crucifix on the gold chain around his neck and with the same fingers he touches the cross with, he then touches the picture.

The baker shuts the locker, allowing the lock to bang against the metal. He walks over to his table, which is occupied with spatulas, measuring spoons, icing paper, and cocoa. Black streaks, from the scratches of knives, mark the yellow wood.

Using a rectangular blade with a wooden handle, Mario cuts a strip of dough about five inches wide. He rolls it into a tubular shape, massaging the dough with his "magic hands." His gold wedding band shines against the yellow dough.

"This ring is 18 years old." However, despite his love for her, he has not seen his wife in four months, since he visited her in the Philippines on one of his only week-long vacations of the year. He takes these vacations twice a year, once to see his wife and daughter during the summer and another week during the winter. Back in 1984, his Uncle Clement took Mario from his wife to make money in the United States; they had been married for just two years. The new baker planned on bringing his wife and baby daughter, Megan Mae, to California a few months after he had settled there. However, complications with immigration prevented Megan Mae and his wife Anna from living with Mario in California.

"I write them a letter every day." He uses his "magic hands" not only to knead dough, but also to write letters of encouragement to his wife and daughter. And every night, he assures them that "they will be home with daddy in California one day. The system is so complicated; I often have to translate my letters for my lawyer into English, so that he can help me get my family over here." While Megan Mae and Anna are alone on the islands, all Mario can do is bake; with his salary, he is able to send an envelope of money to them week after week. "Financially, I'm supporting them, but God knows that's not enough. I am a father. I need to be there to watch Megan grow." He licks his lips of their dryness and rubs the corner of his head in frustration.

When each roll has been detached from the mass of dough, Mario throws them to Francisco who is waiting at the other side of the table. A tray full of breadcrumbs sits in front of the assistant; he smothers each small ball of dough with bread bits to form a crumb coat. Francisco throws the dough back at Mario and the master baker catches it in mid-air behind his back with his flour-dusted hand. Francisco gleams with admiration. Mario arranges the rolls on a baking pan in six rows and four columns. "I gotta be careful here. If I put an extra row onto the pan, Uncle Clement will be furious. An extra row means an extra four pan de sal, which means that the pan de sal are too small. Every day, I get a complaint. 'Oh no, these are too small.' Tomorrow, they'll be too big. And the next day? 'Sorry Mario, these are too dry.'" He counts the rolls with his finger and when finished, he nods his head and whispers, "Twenty-four."

 


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